Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
➤ Gửi thông báo lỗi ⚠️ Báo cáo tài liệu vi phạmNội dung chi tiết: Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
Part IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2 Conditioning RegimenCrystal AguhIntroductionCleansing the hair is the cornerstone of any healthy hair regimen. A typical cleansing routine consists of shampooing the hair, followed by the application of a conditioner. Other important elements include the use of protein-containing conditioners and o Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2ils which can further enhance the benefits of routine cleansing. This chapter will provide an in-depth discussion of the role each of these product tyEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
pes plays in maintaining and promoting healthy hair.ShampoosShampooing the hair has many purposes but none greater than cleansing the scalp of buildupPart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2 shine that many consumers crave. Shampoos work to weaken the forces that bind dirt and residue to the hair as well as remove buildup of hair products and sebum [ I ]. Sebum, the product of the scalp's sebaceous glands, is a natural moisturizing oil that traverses down the hair shaft (2]. This serve Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2s to protect the shaft from damage and provide a natural shine [3]. However, accumulation of excess sebum can give the hair an oily appearance, whichEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
may be undesirable, particularly in individuals with straight hair who experience rapid movement of sebum from the root to tips [3]. Sebum is also a pPart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2hool of Medicine, 5200 Eastern Avenue. Suite 2500. Baltimore. MD 21224. USA£ Springer International Publishing Switzerland 2017c. Aguh. G.A. Okoye (eds.), Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair. in UYHffiio Ĩ 2 in KAHC n 17980C.AguhThough there is likely no difference in the sebum production between racial gro Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2ups, it is more difficult for sebum to coat the entire length of very curly hair. This is one of the reasons that curly hair types are more prone to dEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
amage from routine grooming [1.4]. For this reason, frequent removal of sebum is undesirable. and frequent shampooing can result in hair that appears Part IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2his varies based on the individual. For patients with a history of seborrheic dermatitis, more frequent washing alone may lead to improvement of symptoms [6]. In general, shampooing may lead to decreased inflammation on the scalp, but may be more damaging to the hair shaft due to its ability to stri Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2p the hair of sebum [3, 7]. For this reason, those with dry or curly hair may benefit from avoiding frequent shampooing. The frequency of hair washingEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
in those with curly hair can vary w idely from once weekly to once monthly depending on the initial condition of the hair. To minimize risk of damagePart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 23] (Fig. 7.1). Additional considerations related to shampoo ingredients are discussed later.Fig. 7.1 Shampooing (he hair7 Developing a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing...81Shampoo IngredientsShampoos are formulated with special detergents aimed al uniquely expelling dill and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2oils from the hair shaft without damaging the shaft or leaving behind calcified buildup fl-31. Shampoos work by decreasing lhe surface tensions betweeEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
n water and dirt allowing the dirt to be washed away during the cleansing process 16]. The first shampoos were formulated like traditional soaps and rPart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2r surfactants, that are able to work well in all types of water 12]. Surfactants consist of a lipophilic group, which attracts oil and dirt, and a hydrophilic group, which attracts waler. They are classified according to the charge of their hydrophilic group [2, .3, 6].Anionic SurfactantsThe most co Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2mmon type of surfactant used in shampoos is anionic surfactants [1. 3|. Anionic surfactants contain a negatively charged hydrophilic group and are conEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
sidered to be the most effective at removing sebum when compared to other classes of surfactants [3, 8]. Examples of anionic surfactants include lauryPart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2be important to consumers who. though falsely, may equate effective cleansing w ith lathering ability [5]. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is the most effective at removing sebum but is harsh to the hair, thus this ingredient is typically used in shampoos marketed to those with oily hair [.3]. Sodium la Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2ureth sulfates (SLES) are less harsh to the hair than SLS but are also quite effective at removing sebum [9]. The use of shampoos containing anionic sEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
urfactants can be beneficial when there is excess product buildup but should be limited to 1-2 limes per month for those with curly hair. However, forPart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2ampoos, they are generally referring to shampoos that are free of anionic surfactants 11 ]. Though anionic surfactants are effective at cleansing the hair, they can often leave the hair dry and more prone to breakage. For those with very curly hair, overcleansing can be particularly damaging due to Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2the decreased sebum content along the length of the hair strand. As a result, sulfale-free shampoos have become increasingly popular for use in curlyEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
hair, as well as other hair types that arc prone to dryness. Patients should be cautioned. however, that ihis term is defined quite loosely and shampoPart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2tantsCationic surfactants are differentiated by their positively charged hydrophilic group [1.2.6.9|. Unlike anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants increase the softness and manageability of the hair [2, .3, 6]. Cationic surfactants arc particularly attracted to negatively charged acids, which ar Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2e abundant in damaged hair. As a result, these surfactants arc particularly effective for those with dry. damaged hair [6].82C.AguhTable 7.1 Shampoo rEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
ecommendations for curly, dry; or damaged hairNon anionic "sulfate-free" surfactantsAnionic surfactantsLess drying than anionic surfactants; ideal forPart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2idopropyl Di methylamine Cocamide MEA Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate Behentrimonium MethosulfateThe products remove product buildup but can be drying. Use sparingly Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Myreth Sulfate Sodium Cl4-16 Ole Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2fin Sulfonate Disodium laureth sulfosuccinateCommon cationic surfactants include quaternary ammonium salts such as benzalkonium chloride and cetrimoniEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
um chloride [5]. Behentrimonium methosulfate is another example of a cationic surfactant, and despite having ‘sulfate' within its name, is a moisturizPart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2oos is limited because they cannot be combined with negatively charged anionic surfactants as this combination results in shampoos with minimal cleansing ability [3].Amphoteric SurfactantsAmphoteric surfactants contain both an anionic group and a cationic group resulting in a neutrally charged surfa Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2ctant with moderate cleansing ability [8]. Amphoteric surfactants operate as a cationic surfactant in low. acidic pH environments and as an anionic suEbook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2
rfactant in more basic, high pH environments [2. 3. 6]. These surfactants also improve manageability and are found in many sulfate-free shampoo formulPart IIIEthnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care RegimenDeveloping a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2rgent used in baby shampoos due to their gentle nature and ability to partially anesthetize the eye to minimize irritation [3]. Common amphoteric surfactants include betaines, sul-taines. and imidazoliums [2].Nonionic Surfactants Ebook Fundamentals of ethnic hair - The dermatologist’s perspective: Part 2Gọi ngay
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