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the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history North: Survey Area3The Upper North of South Australia is the name given to the region centred roughly on Jamestown, about 200km north of Adelaide. It

is an irregular rectangle about 170km from east to west and 140km from north to south, bounded by the shore of Spencer Gulf on the west, and extendin the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

g as far as the towns of Redhill and Yacka in the south, Hallett and Oodla Wirra in the east, and Wilmington and Orroroo in the north. Council boundar

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

ies in the region have been subject to considerable change in recent years, but the local government areas making up the region at present are the Pon

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-historyncil of Orroroo.'Carrieton (formerly Orroroo) and the northern part of the Regional Council of Goyder (formerly Hallett).The historical process of set

tlement in the upper North is one of the most interesting case studies in Australia - and indeed in the world - of the economic and social changes bro the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

ught about by the land reform legislation of the 1860s, which transformed an enormous area of land from pastoral to agricultural use in the space of l

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

ess than a decade. This process has already been studied by a number of historians. Donald Meinig’s superb study in historical geography. On the Margi

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-historycts, in 1968 by Keith Bowes’ Land Settlement in South Australia, and in 1973 by John Hirst’s Adelaide and the Country, which provided a fuller backgro

und to the Sirangways Act and the politics of the land reform era. Michael Williams’ The Making of the South Australian Landscape in 1974 explored the the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

se and the many other forces, environmental, economic, social and political, which have shaped the physical environment we have inherited. Thus, in de

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

scribing the successive waves of European occupation of the Upper North region, this account is able to draw on some eminent historical studies giving

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-historytrict was taken up by wheat farmers in the 1870s and most of the towns and their civic institutions - schools, churches, council chambers - were estab

lished in that decade, the 1970s saw local history flourishing throughout the Upper North as books were written celebrating the centenaries of various the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

milestones in European settlement. Many of these publications have been consulted in compiling this historical account, and are listed in the bibliog

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

raphy of this report. One pioneering study was Nancy Robinson’s Change on Change in 1971. Liz Blieschke’s Plain of Contrast in 1975, Melrose, Child of

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-historyn 1995 are particularly notable among the many other works which have maintained the strong local history tradition.This report has also been able to

draw on the research done in the course of earlier regional heritage surveys bordering the Upper North Region on three sides: the Yorke Peninsula - wh the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

ich similarly experienced the sudden impact of settlement under the Strangways Act - the Lower North, and the Flinders Ranges. The City of Pon Pirie,

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

the town of Peterborough and the former District Council of Hallett within the upper Nonh region have already been covered by earlier local heritage s

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-historyl lands and their associated towns are generally located in the valleys between parallel ranges, and this has tended to mould transport links and occu

pation patterns into a series of topographically controlled nonh-south corridors, so that the layout of European settlement today reflects the neatnes the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

s of the landscape. Grenfell Price summarised the influence of geography on human activity in the region:... in the North Mount Lofty Ranges, between

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

Gawler and Jamestown, relief becomes subdued. The characteristic topography here is one of low meridional ranges separated by heavily alluviated, long

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-historyorth and south flow in parallel valleys nicely adjusted, in the main, to the folded and faulted structures. Except where resistant rocks outcrop the d

ivides are low and gently sloping.The relief, soil and rainfall conditions of the North Mount Lofty Ranges have proved very suitable for the productio the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

n of livestock and grain, the wheat yields being among the highest in the State. In the drier rain-shadow areas, between Burra and Terowie, wool is th

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

e principal product. (Price and Martin 1946, p. 7)The topography of the region divides logically into three sections from west to east: (a) the plain

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-historyy Ranges in the south of the region, merging into the South Flinders Ranges in the north), and (c) the arid eastern plain. The smallest section is the

coastal plain of Spencer Gulf from Redhill up to Mambray Creek, sometimes called the Pirie Plains. The plain is mostly narrow, sloping up to the rang the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

es which everywhere form the eastern skyline.The ranges occupy most of the region, forming a series of ridges running generally north-south parallel t

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

o the coast in a band over 100km in width from west to east. The ranges are highest and most regular in the west near the Gulf coast, reaching 960m al

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history. More typically, the ranges throughout the region rise to about 500m high at the ridge tops. The ranges generally become lower, trend more to the nor

th-east and their intervening valleys become wider as we travel further from the coast. In the south-east of the region they rise again to 930m Mount the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

Bryan east of the line of the Barrier Highway through Hallett and Terowie. From this last ridge the ranges flatten into the inland plain stretching ea

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

stward to the New South Wales border.This topography is reflected in the rainfall, which is mostly brought by westerly and south-westerly winds from t

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history moisture. The high coastal ranges running north and south from Mount Remarkable in the west have the highest average annual rainfall of the region, a

bout 500mm, which is about the same as that of metropolitan Adelaide. Most of the region has more than 300mm average annual rainfall, except on the ea the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

stern plain, where it falls away to below 250mm. (Griffin and McCaskill 1986, p. 51) Average rainfall drops rapidly with distance travelled inland; ea

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

ch parallel valley is drier than the one to its west. The placenames on the map vividly depict the5region's climatic range: Crystal Brook and Beautifu

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-historyhe time of European settlement, the higher ranges near the coast were clad in Eucalyptus and Callitris forests, the lower ranges of the inland alterna

ting between red gums along the creeks, treeless grassland in the valleys, and mixed eucalyptus forest on the ridges, with open-canopied mallee on the the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

plains. At least that was the theoretical model, but in practice all these botanic communities occurred in irregular patches, depending on the soil.

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

Grassland became more prevalent than trees on the Willochra Plain, and grass gave way to saltbush in the nonh and east as the average rainfall reduced

1The Heritage of the upper North: a short historyPeter Bell1 The RegionA regional map follows on the next page.2Figure 1 Heritage Survey of the Upper

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-historydges and saltbush on the plains. (Specht 1972)The lower two-thirds of the region is within the basin of the Broughton River, and its drainage is domin

ated by the tributaries of that system. Crystal Brook, Rocky River, Yackamoorundie Creek and Bundaleer Creek all flow from north to south down the par the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

allel valley system before swinging west to join the Broughton, which, when it was a much more powerful river than it is now, cut a channel west throu

the-heritage-of-the-upper-north---a-short-history

gh the ranges in a great sweeping curve, to flow into Spencer Gulf south of Port Pirie. At the Broughton's mouth, silt carried on the flow has built u

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